M416 Camper Details
page 2
Click on thumbnails to see fullsize
Here are the details of Ron
Rietfors pop up tent on his
M416 trailer
Rietfors pop up tent on his
M416 trailer
all photos and text
by Ron Rietfors
by Ron Rietfors
Description of photos for camper top.
The pictures are numbered in the lower rt. Corner.
Click on the thumbnails to see photos full size
Photo # 1. This picture shows the flap that we sewed around the top section, and the snaps
that hold the material to the frame. The flap is used the secure the top of the camper while
in the down position. It Velcro's to the outside, of the sides of the top, that are also Velcro'd
to the sheet metal frame work that sits atop the trailer. Without the snaps the material for
the top would creep up on the framework when it was lowered. "We found that with the
back door zipped and secured the top is fairly airtight". When lowering the top, all one has
to due is give the legs a chop to fold them in (at a 45 degree) and the top slowly sinks down,
giving you time to fold the sides in for storage.
Photo # 2. This picture shows how the flap can be used to secure the sides to air the bedding
out. This is also handy for holding the sides up for cooler sleeping, during warmer times
such as the beach, or when the weather permits in the mountains. In this photo you can see
the extension of the trailer at the front and back and the propane tank secured by a fire
extinguisher holder behind the fender. We use the propane tank for our stove when
camping.
Photo # 3. This picture shows how the camper looks without the outside OD vinyl covering
in place, just the insulated portion. The patches along the sides are extra Camo material
sewn to the quilted insulation at each of the snaps to prevent tearing at the snaps. The
insulated material is fabric batting quilted to regular camouflaged material obtained from a
surplus store. This Camo material is then Velcro'd to the OD. Vinyl fabric that covers the
top at the very bottom just above the side rails. You can also see the small ladder
(purchased from ACE hdwr), used to enter the camper, secured to the back of the trailer
just under the extension.
Photo #4. This picture shows how the camper looks without the top material in place, and in
the down position. Notice the amount of room for the bedding, there's no need to store the
bedding elsewhere. With the sides Velcro'd to the trailer dust and dirt can't get to them.
Photo #5. This picture shows how the camper looks without the top material in place, and in
the down position from the rear. The boarding ladder stows out of the way and in close
proximity for use. The bedding is a four-inch thick foam pad covered with a removable
cover for washing periodically. Sorry we didn't do it in Camo.
Photo # 6. This picture shows how the legs fold in at a 45-degree angle and allow the side
material to be folded in with them. There is a little bunching of the side material when in the
down position, but it's not noticeable because it just falls under the framework. You can also
see where the braces, attach that support the top when it's up, are located. You can also see
the leg lock, in the stowed position, and how it locks on the screw (10/32) on the top leg. You
maybe able to make out the Velcro glued to the sheet metal frame that sit atop the trailer.
This I where the sides Velcro to, this picture is of the rt. front of the trailer.
Photo #7. This is the same corner of the trailer as photo #6, just in the raised position with
the leg locked and the braces locked. Notice the 10/32 screw to hold the leg lock at the top
of the leg. You will also notice the braces are held onto the pins with small clips so they can
be removed at any time.
Photo #8&9. These pictures show the leg semi collapsed and how the hinges work.
Photo #10. Shows the lt. Front legs with the lock in place preventing it from folding down.
Photo #11. Shows the locking tube for the legs secured in the position ready for leg collapse
and top down.
Photo # 12. Shows the top frame up with all braces locked to secure the top in the up
position, and no bedding
Photo #13. Shows the approx. location for the side braces to attach to the sheet metal.
Photo #14 shows the barrel hinge in the fully open positions.
Photo #15 shows the barrel hinge in the fully closed position. These hinges are what make
the whole thing work so well. They can be purchased from, Outwater Plastics, Ph
1-800-631-8375. They are called barrel hinges or non-mortise cylinder hinges, and they cost
about $1.66 each. Order the; 16mm part # H-240-16.
I ordered 14 hinges because that way I have extra if need be, you will need a dozen hinges
for your top. They are solid Brass so they can be easily bent or damaged if not carefully
operated.
Last but not least is photo #16. This photo show the counter top I made to fit under the side
of the trailer, on top of the fender, for cooking and setting food during preparation. It also
shows how the propane stove hooks up without removing the propane bottle from it's holder
(fire extinguisher) at the rear of the trailer. The counter top can be used on either side of
the trailer, we just happen to use it in this side for convenience to everything and we don't
have to disconnect the propane bottle, one less thing to get tangled up in during cooking.
The counter top is just under 6' in length so it stows inside the trailer. I had to make cutouts
for the water can on the side of the trailer, but that gives me water close to the cooking area
without taking the can off. ( I put faucets on all of my water cans just for that reason.).
Well that's it for my modification known as the pop-up camper top. If anyone have
something similar, I'd like to see your set-up. Mine is very time consuming to make but it
does everything I need and works very well. Must people don't want to spend the time
making such a thing as this, they would rather sleep on a cot, or the ground, or in a tent, and
that's OK with me. I'm a little used to creature comforts and so is my wife, besides I like to
keep her HAPPY. MORE I?M ALLOWED TO DO WITH MY TOYS.
I look forward to comments from anyone wanting to do the same.
Mahalo,
Ron
dynasty@ilhawaii.net
The pictures are numbered in the lower rt. Corner.
Click on the thumbnails to see photos full size
Photo # 1. This picture shows the flap that we sewed around the top section, and the snaps
that hold the material to the frame. The flap is used the secure the top of the camper while
in the down position. It Velcro's to the outside, of the sides of the top, that are also Velcro'd
to the sheet metal frame work that sits atop the trailer. Without the snaps the material for
the top would creep up on the framework when it was lowered. "We found that with the
back door zipped and secured the top is fairly airtight". When lowering the top, all one has
to due is give the legs a chop to fold them in (at a 45 degree) and the top slowly sinks down,
giving you time to fold the sides in for storage.
Photo # 2. This picture shows how the flap can be used to secure the sides to air the bedding
out. This is also handy for holding the sides up for cooler sleeping, during warmer times
such as the beach, or when the weather permits in the mountains. In this photo you can see
the extension of the trailer at the front and back and the propane tank secured by a fire
extinguisher holder behind the fender. We use the propane tank for our stove when
camping.
Photo # 3. This picture shows how the camper looks without the outside OD vinyl covering
in place, just the insulated portion. The patches along the sides are extra Camo material
sewn to the quilted insulation at each of the snaps to prevent tearing at the snaps. The
insulated material is fabric batting quilted to regular camouflaged material obtained from a
surplus store. This Camo material is then Velcro'd to the OD. Vinyl fabric that covers the
top at the very bottom just above the side rails. You can also see the small ladder
(purchased from ACE hdwr), used to enter the camper, secured to the back of the trailer
just under the extension.
Photo #4. This picture shows how the camper looks without the top material in place, and in
the down position. Notice the amount of room for the bedding, there's no need to store the
bedding elsewhere. With the sides Velcro'd to the trailer dust and dirt can't get to them.
Photo #5. This picture shows how the camper looks without the top material in place, and in
the down position from the rear. The boarding ladder stows out of the way and in close
proximity for use. The bedding is a four-inch thick foam pad covered with a removable
cover for washing periodically. Sorry we didn't do it in Camo.
Photo # 6. This picture shows how the legs fold in at a 45-degree angle and allow the side
material to be folded in with them. There is a little bunching of the side material when in the
down position, but it's not noticeable because it just falls under the framework. You can also
see where the braces, attach that support the top when it's up, are located. You can also see
the leg lock, in the stowed position, and how it locks on the screw (10/32) on the top leg. You
maybe able to make out the Velcro glued to the sheet metal frame that sit atop the trailer.
This I where the sides Velcro to, this picture is of the rt. front of the trailer.
Photo #7. This is the same corner of the trailer as photo #6, just in the raised position with
the leg locked and the braces locked. Notice the 10/32 screw to hold the leg lock at the top
of the leg. You will also notice the braces are held onto the pins with small clips so they can
be removed at any time.
Photo #8&9. These pictures show the leg semi collapsed and how the hinges work.
Photo #10. Shows the lt. Front legs with the lock in place preventing it from folding down.
Photo #11. Shows the locking tube for the legs secured in the position ready for leg collapse
and top down.
Photo # 12. Shows the top frame up with all braces locked to secure the top in the up
position, and no bedding
Photo #13. Shows the approx. location for the side braces to attach to the sheet metal.
Photo #14 shows the barrel hinge in the fully open positions.
Photo #15 shows the barrel hinge in the fully closed position. These hinges are what make
the whole thing work so well. They can be purchased from, Outwater Plastics, Ph
1-800-631-8375. They are called barrel hinges or non-mortise cylinder hinges, and they cost
about $1.66 each. Order the; 16mm part # H-240-16.
I ordered 14 hinges because that way I have extra if need be, you will need a dozen hinges
for your top. They are solid Brass so they can be easily bent or damaged if not carefully
operated.
Last but not least is photo #16. This photo show the counter top I made to fit under the side
of the trailer, on top of the fender, for cooking and setting food during preparation. It also
shows how the propane stove hooks up without removing the propane bottle from it's holder
(fire extinguisher) at the rear of the trailer. The counter top can be used on either side of
the trailer, we just happen to use it in this side for convenience to everything and we don't
have to disconnect the propane bottle, one less thing to get tangled up in during cooking.
The counter top is just under 6' in length so it stows inside the trailer. I had to make cutouts
for the water can on the side of the trailer, but that gives me water close to the cooking area
without taking the can off. ( I put faucets on all of my water cans just for that reason.).
Well that's it for my modification known as the pop-up camper top. If anyone have
something similar, I'd like to see your set-up. Mine is very time consuming to make but it
does everything I need and works very well. Must people don't want to spend the time
making such a thing as this, they would rather sleep on a cot, or the ground, or in a tent, and
that's OK with me. I'm a little used to creature comforts and so is my wife, besides I like to
keep her HAPPY. MORE I?M ALLOWED TO DO WITH MY TOYS.
I look forward to comments from anyone wanting to do the same.
Mahalo,
Ron
dynasty@ilhawaii.net
