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#2
#2
TRAILER POP-UP CAMPER TOP
FOR M416
This is just a short description of my fabrication method for this top. It along with the pictures
and a good sense for fabrication will assist you in making one similar to this.
I designed this camper top section to minimize wind resistance when towing and for better
visibility when backing up while off-roading. The roof framework is made from 1/2" EMT
(electrical tubing) welded together to fit the top section outer lip of a M-416 trailer. I had
modified my trailer by adding a 16 Ga. sheet metal section in the form of a "Z" that matched
the sides of the trailer to both ends of the trailer. This extended the top section by 4" on
each end making the top of the trailer 6'-8" X 48 1/2" (inside dim.)
I then made a framework out of 16 Ga. Sheet metal formed into a "Z" section that fit over
the top of the trailer. This "Z" section is 2" wide at the top, 4" deep, with a 4" bottom leg for
the 1/2" plywood to rest on. With a couple of stiffeners to support the plywood, and a place to
mount the gas struts. I could now lift the top section away from the trailer for access to the
trailer bed itself. I made locks for this section out of a couple of door hinges, this way I could
lift the top from either side, and pivot on the other side.
I then made the roof section to match the new framework that sat on top of the trailer and
down inside the top lip of the trailer. I used 12 pcs. of EMT. ( I made a couple of mistakes) to
make the framework. With an EMT bender I bent the center bend to 6 degrees at the center
of the tube (10') Here's where it takes some practice!!!!! I determined the distance at which I
needed to make the bends for the outside and bent them to 86 degrees on each side. This left
me with long legs on each side, not to worry they got cut off and used for the stiffeners on the
top. I cut my legs ( square cut) to 2" from the bend on two of these frames, now the overall
frame height is 8 3/4" from the top to the bottom.(see photo #5)
I made 5 of these frames but only two frames got the legs cut at this time (square cut). The
rest of the frames I used a 5/8" hole saw to shorten them so they would fit on top of the side
tubing that ran along the border. I then used a 5/8" hole saw to make the side rails for the
front and rear frame to attach to (see photo#6). By setting the front and rear frame (EMT)
on the sheet metal framework I determined the length of the side rails. I then determined the
length of a spreader bar for the front and rear frame and using the hole saw I cut these to
length (see photo #5 & 8).
I welded the front and rear spreader bars in place making sure they were both identical (see
photo #5 & 8).. Then I welded them to the side rails making sure they were perpendicular to
the side rails (see photo #6). Now I started cutting the rest of the top bows with the hole saw.
Once that was done I welded them to the side rails at equal distances along the side rail (see
photo #4). NOTE: make sure the side rails stay straight. If they bend because of the welding
now is the time to straighten them. Once this is done you can now start measuring the
distances between the bows and cutting (with the hole saw) the spreader bars for the center
of the bows (see photo #4 & 5). If you take your time and measure twice and cut once you'll
save yourself a lot of grief latter, keep checking your distances from end to end otherwise
the bows will start to bend the side rails and the whole top section will fit poorly to the sheet
metal framework.
I welded the side spreader bars incorrectly on mine (see photo #6, 7, 8). They need to be
welded so that you can mount the top leg section to them rather than to the side, like mine,
(see photo #6,7,8) it makes it a lot easier in the long run. You should weld them to match the
dimension of the bottom leg section, that way they will be stronger as well as easier later on.
Now you can cut (square cut both ends) 4 pieces of tubing 3 1/2" long for the bottom legs
section that will be mounted (welded) to the sheet metal framework inside the corners. Now
cut 4pcs. 3 1/2" long (square cut one end and use the hole saw on the other end) for the top
legs section. Set the framework on the sheet metal frame to determine the location of the
side spreader bars. The top leg section should be directly over the bottom section that is
already welded in place.
Once this is done you're ready to make the legs. Cut 8 pcs. 13 1/2" long (square cut) for the
legs. Each end of each leg and the top and bottom leg sections welded in place must now be
stretched to fit the 5/8" barrel hinge. I used a piece of round bar stock tapered to stretch the
EMT. For the barrel hinges (trail and error here)Before putting the legs together weld three
5/16" pins with holes for clips, thru the bottom rails to mount the braces to later (see photo
#7, 9) Then weld 3 small angle clips to the side braces at one end (see photo #7) don't cut the
braces until you have determined their length. Raise the braces so that they are parallel with
the bottom rails of the framework, and weld a clip to the ends of the three braces. Once that
is done you need to weld three more pins in the bottom rail for these braces to attach to when
stored. They should be short enough that they don't interfere with the top section of the legs
that have been previously welded in place.
Now you must make 4 leg locks that will lock the legs when they are extended. I used 3/4"
EMT tubing for my leg locks, it slips over the 1/2"EMT legs. Cut (square cut) the locks to
12" long. I cut a slot (see photo # 10, 11) and drilled a larger hole than the slot for the lock to
hook on a screw (10/32 photo #7) that I had placed in the upper leg (see photo # 11). This
way the lock stays up when I fold the legs to lower the top section (see photo # 6,9,11).
Assemble the legs with the barrel hinges to the bottom section and the top section, and so
they are at 45 degrees to the sides (see photo#6), raise the top, locking the legs, and
determine the length of the braces. Mark the location of the brace where it meets the sheet
metal frame on the inside and drill a hole for another pin (see photo # 9, 12, 13). (make, sure
the EMT frame is directly above the trailer before marking and drilling holes for the braces
in the sheet metal framework). Weld a pin thru the framework at each of the holes you
drilled. Now the top framework is fairly rigid when raised.
Now you're ready to make a cover for the whole thing. As you can see by photo #3 we
insulated ours because of the condensation problems, and because it gets a little cold at
7-9,000 feet here in Hawaii. We also attached the cover with Velcro and snaps for easy
alignment. To seal the inside from the dust when towing the Velcro does the job beautifully.
As you can see by photo # 2 if we want to open the top for warmer weather we can just raise
the side and the Velcro holds them up. Photo #1 shows the lip sewn to hold the top in place
when down as well as keep the dust out of the sides. Things stay a whole lot cleaner with this
feature.
As I said in starting, this is "my method of fabrication" for this camper pop-up top for a
M-416 trailer. Please forgive me if these instructions are not complete, it's been two years
since I made this top and I'm trying to remember the sequence and all the necessary
information relevant to it's fabrication. If you have any questions or need further assistance
during your fabrication please don't hesitate to e-mail me at dynasty@ilhawaii.net
Mahalo, and happy camping.
Ron
FOR M416
This is just a short description of my fabrication method for this top. It along with the pictures
and a good sense for fabrication will assist you in making one similar to this.
I designed this camper top section to minimize wind resistance when towing and for better
visibility when backing up while off-roading. The roof framework is made from 1/2" EMT
(electrical tubing) welded together to fit the top section outer lip of a M-416 trailer. I had
modified my trailer by adding a 16 Ga. sheet metal section in the form of a "Z" that matched
the sides of the trailer to both ends of the trailer. This extended the top section by 4" on
each end making the top of the trailer 6'-8" X 48 1/2" (inside dim.)
I then made a framework out of 16 Ga. Sheet metal formed into a "Z" section that fit over
the top of the trailer. This "Z" section is 2" wide at the top, 4" deep, with a 4" bottom leg for
the 1/2" plywood to rest on. With a couple of stiffeners to support the plywood, and a place to
mount the gas struts. I could now lift the top section away from the trailer for access to the
trailer bed itself. I made locks for this section out of a couple of door hinges, this way I could
lift the top from either side, and pivot on the other side.
I then made the roof section to match the new framework that sat on top of the trailer and
down inside the top lip of the trailer. I used 12 pcs. of EMT. ( I made a couple of mistakes) to
make the framework. With an EMT bender I bent the center bend to 6 degrees at the center
of the tube (10') Here's where it takes some practice!!!!! I determined the distance at which I
needed to make the bends for the outside and bent them to 86 degrees on each side. This left
me with long legs on each side, not to worry they got cut off and used for the stiffeners on the
top. I cut my legs ( square cut) to 2" from the bend on two of these frames, now the overall
frame height is 8 3/4" from the top to the bottom.(see photo #5)
I made 5 of these frames but only two frames got the legs cut at this time (square cut). The
rest of the frames I used a 5/8" hole saw to shorten them so they would fit on top of the side
tubing that ran along the border. I then used a 5/8" hole saw to make the side rails for the
front and rear frame to attach to (see photo#6). By setting the front and rear frame (EMT)
on the sheet metal framework I determined the length of the side rails. I then determined the
length of a spreader bar for the front and rear frame and using the hole saw I cut these to
length (see photo #5 & 8).
I welded the front and rear spreader bars in place making sure they were both identical (see
photo #5 & 8).. Then I welded them to the side rails making sure they were perpendicular to
the side rails (see photo #6). Now I started cutting the rest of the top bows with the hole saw.
Once that was done I welded them to the side rails at equal distances along the side rail (see
photo #4). NOTE: make sure the side rails stay straight. If they bend because of the welding
now is the time to straighten them. Once this is done you can now start measuring the
distances between the bows and cutting (with the hole saw) the spreader bars for the center
of the bows (see photo #4 & 5). If you take your time and measure twice and cut once you'll
save yourself a lot of grief latter, keep checking your distances from end to end otherwise
the bows will start to bend the side rails and the whole top section will fit poorly to the sheet
metal framework.
I welded the side spreader bars incorrectly on mine (see photo #6, 7, 8). They need to be
welded so that you can mount the top leg section to them rather than to the side, like mine,
(see photo #6,7,8) it makes it a lot easier in the long run. You should weld them to match the
dimension of the bottom leg section, that way they will be stronger as well as easier later on.
Now you can cut (square cut both ends) 4 pieces of tubing 3 1/2" long for the bottom legs
section that will be mounted (welded) to the sheet metal framework inside the corners. Now
cut 4pcs. 3 1/2" long (square cut one end and use the hole saw on the other end) for the top
legs section. Set the framework on the sheet metal frame to determine the location of the
side spreader bars. The top leg section should be directly over the bottom section that is
already welded in place.
Once this is done you're ready to make the legs. Cut 8 pcs. 13 1/2" long (square cut) for the
legs. Each end of each leg and the top and bottom leg sections welded in place must now be
stretched to fit the 5/8" barrel hinge. I used a piece of round bar stock tapered to stretch the
EMT. For the barrel hinges (trail and error here)Before putting the legs together weld three
5/16" pins with holes for clips, thru the bottom rails to mount the braces to later (see photo
#7, 9) Then weld 3 small angle clips to the side braces at one end (see photo #7) don't cut the
braces until you have determined their length. Raise the braces so that they are parallel with
the bottom rails of the framework, and weld a clip to the ends of the three braces. Once that
is done you need to weld three more pins in the bottom rail for these braces to attach to when
stored. They should be short enough that they don't interfere with the top section of the legs
that have been previously welded in place.
Now you must make 4 leg locks that will lock the legs when they are extended. I used 3/4"
EMT tubing for my leg locks, it slips over the 1/2"EMT legs. Cut (square cut) the locks to
12" long. I cut a slot (see photo # 10, 11) and drilled a larger hole than the slot for the lock to
hook on a screw (10/32 photo #7) that I had placed in the upper leg (see photo # 11). This
way the lock stays up when I fold the legs to lower the top section (see photo # 6,9,11).
Assemble the legs with the barrel hinges to the bottom section and the top section, and so
they are at 45 degrees to the sides (see photo#6), raise the top, locking the legs, and
determine the length of the braces. Mark the location of the brace where it meets the sheet
metal frame on the inside and drill a hole for another pin (see photo # 9, 12, 13). (make, sure
the EMT frame is directly above the trailer before marking and drilling holes for the braces
in the sheet metal framework). Weld a pin thru the framework at each of the holes you
drilled. Now the top framework is fairly rigid when raised.
Now you're ready to make a cover for the whole thing. As you can see by photo #3 we
insulated ours because of the condensation problems, and because it gets a little cold at
7-9,000 feet here in Hawaii. We also attached the cover with Velcro and snaps for easy
alignment. To seal the inside from the dust when towing the Velcro does the job beautifully.
As you can see by photo # 2 if we want to open the top for warmer weather we can just raise
the side and the Velcro holds them up. Photo #1 shows the lip sewn to hold the top in place
when down as well as keep the dust out of the sides. Things stay a whole lot cleaner with this
feature.
As I said in starting, this is "my method of fabrication" for this camper pop-up top for a
M-416 trailer. Please forgive me if these instructions are not complete, it's been two years
since I made this top and I'm trying to remember the sequence and all the necessary
information relevant to it's fabrication. If you have any questions or need further assistance
during your fabrication please don't hesitate to e-mail me at dynasty@ilhawaii.net
Mahalo, and happy camping.
Ron