M-151A2
Muttmotorpool
Polyurethane Rear
suspension Bushing
instructions by Ron Rietfors
suspension Bushing
instructions by Ron Rietfors
POLYURETHANE REAR SUSPENSION BUSHINGS FOR THE
M-151 MUTT
If your vehicle is a show vehicle this is not some thing you will want
to do.
The manufacture of the polyurethane bushings mentioned in this
article is simply mentioned as a guide or reference. This is not meant
to be an endorsement for their product. In fact they have not seen fit
to return OEM bushing sent to them in an attempt to locate true
replacement products for our vehicles. Other manufactures have
similar products that could be used in place of these, I simply didn't
have them for a comparison to the stock bushings.
COST- $22.00-$30.00 Depending on supplier. Compared to the best
price listed of $39.00 from your Surplus Dealer. These can usually be
purchased from a four wheeler or off road supplier.
The following is a guide to replacing the stock rubber rear suspension
bushing on the M-151 Mutt with modern polyurethane bushings.
PARTS REQUIRED;
1. 1@ CJ. Front spring and shackle set of polyurethane bushings.
Energy Suspensions part # 2.2102R or equal. They are available in
either red or black.
2. 2" X 2" X 10" Wooden picket.
3. 7/16" X 2" Bolt, & washer. Thread type doesn't matter it's used
simply as a guide during installation.
TOOLS REQUIRED;
1. 1" Fostner wood bit or equivalent bit to drill a 1" hole in the 2" X
2" wooden picket.
2. Jack
3. Jack Stands min. 2
4. 5/8"-11/16" box wrench
5. Pliers
6. Diagonal cutters (side cutters)
7. 5/8" Socket
8. 11/16" Socket
9. Ratchet for above Sockets preferably 1/2" drive
10. Bench Grinder
11. Bandsaw (wood)
12. 1/4" drive 3/8" deep Socket. (used to press out the center sleeve
of stock bushings with "C" clamp)
13. 7/8" Deep Socket. (used to receive rubber pressed out of stock
outer sleeve of the stock bushing with "C" clamp.
14. 4" "C" Clamp.
Once you have purchased the polyurethane bushing set you will only
be using the eight (8) small bushings and lubricant. You may some
day find a use for the four (4) remaining large bushings and two (2)
sleeves but they aren't required for this modifications.
Drill a 1" hole in the wooden 2" X 2" close to one end (see photo #1).
Install a polyurethane bushing into the hole in the wooden 2" X 2".
Set the fence of the Bandsaw at 15/16" from the blade (the overall
length of the bushing must be 15/16" see photo #2).
After cutting the bushing with the Bandsaw remove it from the 2" X
2". Its overall length should be 15/16". Photo #3 shows a comparison
between the stock length and the new length. By putting two (2)
newly shortened bushing together they will equal the length of the
stock rubber bushing (see photo #4).
Once you have your Mutt's rear suspension fully extended and the
rear wheels off the ground and safely sitting on jack stands, you can
begin removing the mounting plates that attaches the rear swing arm
to the unibody. Remove only one set of mounting plates at a time!
Once the plates are off both sides, of only one pivot point, remove
the center metal sleeve of the bushing. ( I used the 1/4" drive 3/8"
deep socket with a Bar Clamp to press the sleeve out and into the
7/8" deep socket). This center metal sleeve will be reused along with
the original bolt & nut so don't discard or damage either one of them
unless you have replacements.
With that done you now want to remove the rubber and the outer
metal sleeve ( I used a socket on one end and the 7/8" deep socket on
the other side with the "C" Clamp).
Next take the inner metal sleeve and clean it of all vulcanized rubber
from it's outside surface. Once that is done you are going to grind a
taper on one end of the center sleeve. The taper will make it easier to
press into the new polyurethane bushing (more on that later). Don't
grind the end of the sleeve so the you have a sharp point at the inside
diameter. Just a small taper will suffice , besides this center sleeve is
what keep the correct distance between the plates and what the swing
arm pivots on inside the new bushings.
With this portion done you're ready to insert the newly shortened
polyurethane bushings into the suspension hole left by the outer
sleeve. Determine which direction you're going to press (preferably
the same direction as the old bushing was installed) and insert that
half bushing first. The remaining half needs a small taper on it's
center hole ( I used a tapered ream in a drill press on mine) where the
two bushing meet in the center of the outer sleeve, to prevent the
inner metal sleeve from pushing it out during assembly.
Insert the second half polyurethane bushing in the outer sleeve of the
swing arm pivot point. Grease the outer surface of Center sleeve
liberally, along with the hole in the polyurethane bushing. This is what
the whole arm pivots on so don't skimp here. There is no need to
grease the outer surface of the polyurethane bushing they won't be
moving during travel of the suspension.
Insert the 7/16" X 2" bolt from the side you'll be pressing to. This
bolt will guide the center sleeve through the second half of the
polyurethane bushing. Insert the center sleeve at the opposite side
using the 4" "C" Clamp to press with. As you will see the center
sleeve is larger than the hole in the polyurethane bushing once it's
installed. This will cause the polyurethane to compress holding it in
place. Once you have started pressing don't stop until you're all the
way in. If you do the polyurethane bushings will force their way out
of the outer sleeve and you'' have to start over again (see photo #5).
Once the center sleeve is fully inserted into the polyurethane bushing
everything will stay put and you're ready to reinstall the swing arm
mounting plates back on the unibody. Use the original bolt unless you
have new bolts to replace them with. Don't use anything less than
grade 5 bolts on suspension parts. If you have a new center bolt use
it, other wise reuse the old bolt and castle nut, with a new cotter key.
Now you can do the other side of the same swing arm and so on.
Don't try to do both sides at the same time, the spring will cause the
arm to move drastically and you may get hurt.
Once back on the road you will notice that the Mutt tracks better
during cornering as well as braking and doesn't tend to roll as much
during cornering. The ride will also seem much harsher because the
polyurethane bushing don't "give" as much as the rubber ones did.
For those of you that complete this modification I'm glad I could be
of service, and hopefully this article will assist in making the job of
retrofitting your Mutt with polyurethane bushings a little easier.
Many thanks to John Cook (AKA OTTER) for providing the
opportunity to be creative with a MUTT.
Mahalo
Ron Rietfors
M-151 MUTT
If your vehicle is a show vehicle this is not some thing you will want
to do.
The manufacture of the polyurethane bushings mentioned in this
article is simply mentioned as a guide or reference. This is not meant
to be an endorsement for their product. In fact they have not seen fit
to return OEM bushing sent to them in an attempt to locate true
replacement products for our vehicles. Other manufactures have
similar products that could be used in place of these, I simply didn't
have them for a comparison to the stock bushings.
COST- $22.00-$30.00 Depending on supplier. Compared to the best
price listed of $39.00 from your Surplus Dealer. These can usually be
purchased from a four wheeler or off road supplier.
The following is a guide to replacing the stock rubber rear suspension
bushing on the M-151 Mutt with modern polyurethane bushings.
PARTS REQUIRED;
1. 1@ CJ. Front spring and shackle set of polyurethane bushings.
Energy Suspensions part # 2.2102R or equal. They are available in
either red or black.
2. 2" X 2" X 10" Wooden picket.
3. 7/16" X 2" Bolt, & washer. Thread type doesn't matter it's used
simply as a guide during installation.
TOOLS REQUIRED;
1. 1" Fostner wood bit or equivalent bit to drill a 1" hole in the 2" X
2" wooden picket.
2. Jack
3. Jack Stands min. 2
4. 5/8"-11/16" box wrench
5. Pliers
6. Diagonal cutters (side cutters)
7. 5/8" Socket
8. 11/16" Socket
9. Ratchet for above Sockets preferably 1/2" drive
10. Bench Grinder
11. Bandsaw (wood)
12. 1/4" drive 3/8" deep Socket. (used to press out the center sleeve
of stock bushings with "C" clamp)
13. 7/8" Deep Socket. (used to receive rubber pressed out of stock
outer sleeve of the stock bushing with "C" clamp.
14. 4" "C" Clamp.
Once you have purchased the polyurethane bushing set you will only
be using the eight (8) small bushings and lubricant. You may some
day find a use for the four (4) remaining large bushings and two (2)
sleeves but they aren't required for this modifications.
Drill a 1" hole in the wooden 2" X 2" close to one end (see photo #1).
Install a polyurethane bushing into the hole in the wooden 2" X 2".
Set the fence of the Bandsaw at 15/16" from the blade (the overall
length of the bushing must be 15/16" see photo #2).
After cutting the bushing with the Bandsaw remove it from the 2" X
2". Its overall length should be 15/16". Photo #3 shows a comparison
between the stock length and the new length. By putting two (2)
newly shortened bushing together they will equal the length of the
stock rubber bushing (see photo #4).
Once you have your Mutt's rear suspension fully extended and the
rear wheels off the ground and safely sitting on jack stands, you can
begin removing the mounting plates that attaches the rear swing arm
to the unibody. Remove only one set of mounting plates at a time!
Once the plates are off both sides, of only one pivot point, remove
the center metal sleeve of the bushing. ( I used the 1/4" drive 3/8"
deep socket with a Bar Clamp to press the sleeve out and into the
7/8" deep socket). This center metal sleeve will be reused along with
the original bolt & nut so don't discard or damage either one of them
unless you have replacements.
With that done you now want to remove the rubber and the outer
metal sleeve ( I used a socket on one end and the 7/8" deep socket on
the other side with the "C" Clamp).
Next take the inner metal sleeve and clean it of all vulcanized rubber
from it's outside surface. Once that is done you are going to grind a
taper on one end of the center sleeve. The taper will make it easier to
press into the new polyurethane bushing (more on that later). Don't
grind the end of the sleeve so the you have a sharp point at the inside
diameter. Just a small taper will suffice , besides this center sleeve is
what keep the correct distance between the plates and what the swing
arm pivots on inside the new bushings.
With this portion done you're ready to insert the newly shortened
polyurethane bushings into the suspension hole left by the outer
sleeve. Determine which direction you're going to press (preferably
the same direction as the old bushing was installed) and insert that
half bushing first. The remaining half needs a small taper on it's
center hole ( I used a tapered ream in a drill press on mine) where the
two bushing meet in the center of the outer sleeve, to prevent the
inner metal sleeve from pushing it out during assembly.
Insert the second half polyurethane bushing in the outer sleeve of the
swing arm pivot point. Grease the outer surface of Center sleeve
liberally, along with the hole in the polyurethane bushing. This is what
the whole arm pivots on so don't skimp here. There is no need to
grease the outer surface of the polyurethane bushing they won't be
moving during travel of the suspension.
Insert the 7/16" X 2" bolt from the side you'll be pressing to. This
bolt will guide the center sleeve through the second half of the
polyurethane bushing. Insert the center sleeve at the opposite side
using the 4" "C" Clamp to press with. As you will see the center
sleeve is larger than the hole in the polyurethane bushing once it's
installed. This will cause the polyurethane to compress holding it in
place. Once you have started pressing don't stop until you're all the
way in. If you do the polyurethane bushings will force their way out
of the outer sleeve and you'' have to start over again (see photo #5).
Once the center sleeve is fully inserted into the polyurethane bushing
everything will stay put and you're ready to reinstall the swing arm
mounting plates back on the unibody. Use the original bolt unless you
have new bolts to replace them with. Don't use anything less than
grade 5 bolts on suspension parts. If you have a new center bolt use
it, other wise reuse the old bolt and castle nut, with a new cotter key.
Now you can do the other side of the same swing arm and so on.
Don't try to do both sides at the same time, the spring will cause the
arm to move drastically and you may get hurt.
Once back on the road you will notice that the Mutt tracks better
during cornering as well as braking and doesn't tend to roll as much
during cornering. The ride will also seem much harsher because the
polyurethane bushing don't "give" as much as the rubber ones did.
For those of you that complete this modification I'm glad I could be
of service, and hopefully this article will assist in making the job of
retrofitting your Mutt with polyurethane bushings a little easier.
Many thanks to John Cook (AKA OTTER) for providing the
opportunity to be creative with a MUTT.
Mahalo
Ron Rietfors
Click on photos to see full size
